Stepping off the edge

Today we had the real Indian experience!

First we had an interesting overnight train journey. We are a group of 5 and were supposed to have a compartment to ourselves. However, like everywhere in India, the train was full. A member of a family somewhere else in the rail car had a bed in our berth. His family probably sent him to sleep elsewhere so they could sleep – he was a loud snorer! There was no door on the compartment and others nearby were on their phones – no one uses earphones here! Needless to say we didn’t get much sleep. And the bathrooms were stinky!

The car was chock a block full!

We arrived to a crowded city called Haridwar. Thousands of people were on a pilgrimage, hence the busy train! This was our first sight of the wide Ganges River.

We had an hour drive to our destination, Rishikesh, a town in the hills known for its yoga and meditation retreats and where you can only get vegetarian food.

Our hotel staff greeted us by placing Tika’s on our foreheads and necklaces over our heads. They served us a delicious traditional Indian breakfast.

Since the temperature hit 41^oC today we stayed out of the midday sun and went down to the Ganges River late afternoon. Many people were in the river, not swimming but letting the water cool them. Some were performing rituals, like the woman in yellow below. Rishikesh is at the mouth of The Ganges so the river is the cleanest here.

Young girls were selling baskets of flowers with incense. I bought one and Chime our guide directed me how to light it and send it down river in honour of the Goddess Ganga. She took a video of me (posted on Instagram). I edited it so you don’t see me struggling to light the incense and then slipping and nearly falling in the river!!

Along the river there were many beautiful sculptures honouring the God Shiva.

We sat on the river bank with a couple of thousand others to attend an aarti ceremony. The 14 priests first individually met with people who requested a blessing. Then each priest gives an earthen lamp fire offering in 4 directions while a band played the drums, a harmonium and sitar and sang hymn like songs. I noticed the many young people in the crowd sang along.

The best part was the elephant who came to the waters edge across the river, it appeared to be washing itself, its trunk dipping in the river and spraying its back. The crowd and all the priests watched.

Maybe it was Ganesh caming to the ceremony!

The sun set and we had a bumpy auto rickshaw 🛺 ride back to the hotel. A full day!