Today we drove from Jaipur towards Agra on a decent two lane highway. Our small bus was constantly impeded by motorcyclists, in some cases, carrying whole families, who weave in and out of the lanes from the shoulder where they usually drive.

We stayed in Lotwara Fort, a former palace that has been converted into a what is called a rural heritage stay. There are hundreds of these palaces that, since India’s Independence and the end of the Maharajas, have been turned into hotels. Our tour group, Intrepid, arranged it for us.

A suprise was that the small village, where the fort is located, was hosting a wedding. We witnessed the garish decorations and experienced the fireworks and loud music into the early morning.


A henna artist came to the hotel and several of the women had their hands adorned.

A local woman performed some traditional dances for us. She asked people to join in and at the end, people danced to an Indian version of the Macarena.


When we walked to the dinner hall we could smell a heavenly scent, Night Jasmine.

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